Crochet Patterns

Crafty Chameleon


  • Yarn of choice in 1 color (I used about ½ skein of Bernat Blanket Yarn)
  • 3 crochet hooks – one (1) in the recommended size for yarn, plus the next 2 sizes smaller
  • I used the following
    • Green multi blanket yarn: K/6.5mm, J/6mm, I/5.5mm
    • Purple multi blanket yarn: L/7mm, K/6.5mm, J/6mm
    • Green acrylic: G/4mm, F/3.75mm, E/3.5mm
  • Yarn needle for weaving in ends and attaching limbs
  • Stuffing
  • Stitch marker or scrap yarn of another color to mark the start of the rounds – I like to use a scrap piece of yarn so that I can weave it through every row to keep track of the row number I’m up to


  • MR = Magic ring – if you don’t know how to do this search it on youtube and there should be lots of options for tutorials
  • SC = single crochet
  • INC = increment – make 2 single crochets in that stitch
  • DEC = decrement – crochet 2 stitches together (I always use invisible decrement where you only take the front loops of the 2 stitches you’re crocheting together)
  • FO = Fasten off – at the end of the tail this will be to pull through the front loop of all the remaining stitches and then through the loop on your hook, for the eyes and feet fasten off by only pulling through only the loop on your hook
  • FLO = Front loops only – when making a crochet in a stitch, only push your hook through the front loop; this will be the outside loop or loop nearest to you when working in round
  • BLO = Back loops only – when making a crochet in a stitch, only push your hook through the back loop; this will be the inside loop or loop furthest from you when working in round
  • SL ST = slip stitch
  • R# = row/round number


  • Instructions are given using standard US abbreviations and crochet terms explained above
  • An instruction followed by x# means to do that same stitch in every stitch around for # stitches 
  • A section of instructions in parentheses followed by x#, such as (Sc, inc) x6, means to follow those instructions around for # times. In this example you would sc in the first stitch, inc in the next, and then repeat so it would go around for 12 stitches and result in 18 stitches
  • (#) at the end of the line is the number of stitches there should be around when you finish each row. This is stated for all lines except ones where the number doesn’t change from the previous line
  • Don’t hesitate to reach out via my contact page or Instagram


Head (head, body, and tail worked as 1 piece)

R1: 6 sc in mr (6)

R2: (Sc, inc) x3 (9)

R3: (Sc, inc) x4, sc (13)

R4: Sc, (sc, inc) x5, sc x2 (18)

R5: Sc x18 (18)

R6: Sc x8, inc x2, sc x8 (20)

R7: Sc x8, inc x4, sc x8 (24)

R8: Sc x9, (sc, inc) x3, sc x9 (27)

R9: Sc x27 (27)

R10: Sc x5, BLO dec x9, both loops sc x4 (18)

R11: (Sc, Dec) x6 (12)

Lightly stuff head – a good way to gauge this is pinch the top part and then stuff like you normally would

R12: Sc x12

Body begins here

R13: FLO (sc, inc) x6 (18)

R14: Sc x18 (18)

R15: (Sc x2, inc) x6 (24)

R16: Sc x24

R17: Sc, dec, sc x18, dec, sc (22) 

R18: Sc, dec, sc x16, dec, sc (20)

R19: Sc, dec, sc x14, dec, sc (18) 

R20: Sc, dec, sc x12, dec, sc (16)

R21: Sc, dec, sc x10, dec, sc (14) 

R22: dec, sc x10, dec (12)

R23: dec, sc x8, dec (10)

Begin to stuff body

R24: dec, sc x6, dec (8)

R25: Dec, sc x4, dec (6)

Stuff the last bit of the body

Tail begins here – stuff as you go

R26-31 (6 rows): Sc x6 (6)

R32: Dec, sc x4 (5)

R33-38 (6 rows): Sc x5 (5)

R39: Dec, sc x3 (4)

R40-43 (4 rows): Sc x4 (4)

Go down a hook size

R44-45: Sc x4 (4)

Go down another hook size

R46-47: Sc x4 (4)

FO with a long yarn tail

Tail Curl

1: Using your yarn needle, poke the yarn tail in the end of the chameleon’s tail as if you were hiding it, then bring the needle back out the 3rd row from the and pull tight to start the curl

2: Poke the needle back in the 4th row and pull back out the 7th (another 3 rows later) and pull tight to curl the tail – try to line up the colors if using variegated yarn

3: Repeat step 2 as many times as desired for making the tail curl

4: Tie off and tuck in the end to hide it

Legs (make 4)

R1: 6 sc in mr (6)

R2-10: Sc x6 (6)

I didn’t stuff my legs but you may want to depending on your yarn

Fold leg flat

Sc in 1st through both layers

Ch 3

Sc in 2nd chain from hook and last chain

In the sc, do a back post sl st (by this I mean to sl st behind the post of the stitch instead of through the top so you come out poised to continue across the row)

Sl st to connect through middle 2 stitches

Sc in last stitch through both layers

Ch 3

Sc in 2nd chain from hook and last chain

In the sc, do a back post sl st

FO and leave a long tail

With your yarn needle insert the tail into the stitch and feed it all the way through the leg to bring it out the first row (we’ll use this later to attach the leg to the body)

Knees and Elbows

With an extra piece of yarn (not the tail):

1: Insert needle to row 4 and pull out row 5

2: Then insert needle into the other side of row 6 and pull it out row 8

3: Tie the yarn piece in a loop, cinching a bend in the leg

Do this towards the left on 2 and towards the right on the other 2


Make 2 with the smallest hook used for the end of the tail (aka -2 size hook)

R1: Sc 6 in mr (6)

R2: Inc x6 (12)

Sl st in next sc and FO with long tail for sewing

Embroider a black center or place a small black safety eye

If embroidering, be sure to pull very tight so the eye is close to a pindot


Squish the head back over the neck and add a stitch on each side attaching row 9 to row 14

Sew the eyes to either side of the head between rows 6 and 8 – they should not be flat against the face but stick out a bit like a dome

Tuck the front legs under the fold in the head created by stitching it squished against the body and fix in place with a stitch using an extra piece of yarn]

Add another stitch at the “elbow” if desired to hold the leg in against the body

Attach the back legs similarly at row 25 where the body ends and tail begins

Again, you can add a stitch at the “knee” if you want the legs to be held in against the body

Make sure to tuck in the ends of your stitches, and that’s it! (I really hate sewing so I tried to minimize it here)

Congrats on finishing your crafty chameleon! Don’t forget to give him or her a name and credit me when sharing on social media and selling platforms (@easybreezycrafting on Instagram, or

Please do not copy any of the pattern and republish as your own. You may sell finished products produced with my pattern in small quantities.


Thank you pattern testers!